How to properly bleed your new Hydraulic Bearing
Always have the AN -4 line with the bleeder valve at the top when the bearing is properly installed. It is OK to swap the lines on the swivel fittings if necessary. Remember the line with the bleeder valve must be at the top position!
Fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid. DO NOT USE SILICONE BASED FLUID or DOT 5 FLUID!! Use of silicone or synthetic fluid will damage the o-rings resulting in leaks and or damage to the assembly. This will void your warranty.
After the master cylinder is filled, bleed the bearing assembly. Example:Open the bleeder screw to almost the point of the screw falling out, 1-2 threads left holding in place. Submerge the line in a wide mouth bowl/cup filled with DOT 3 or 4 fluid, make sure not to add a hose extension to the end of the bleeder fitting. Air can trap between the two connections. From the top of the stroke on the pedal to the floor board push the pedal fast, when you reach the floor board pause for 2-3 seconds and then slowly draw the pedal back up to the top, Pause 2-3 seconds and then repat the steps unitl the pedal is as firm as the brake pedal. This will release and air trapped in the system.
Continue the bleeding process until all of the air is removed from the system. Always keep fluid in the master cylinder while performing the bleeding process. Now reach into the cup and tighten the bleeder fitting while still under fluid to finger tight, closing the system. Set the cup aside and then be sure to tighten the bleeder valve with a wrench.
Once the bleeding is complete refill the master cylinder, just don’t fill it all the way to the top. The fluid level should be ½” to ¾” from the top. This will allow room for the brake fluid in the reservoir when the bearing self adjusts. Unlike brakes, the fluid level will rise in the master cylinder, as the clutch wears, not lower.
Master Cylinder Rod Adjustment
We have a common question with customers that say “my clutch wont bleed” “I cant build pressure” So I ask you, have you played with the master cylinders rod’s adjustment at the pedal?
The most common issue with not bleeding or building pressure is the master cylinders rod pre-loading the piston inside of the master cylinder when the pedal is in the “home” position.
When this happens the piston falls short of butting up against the snap ring and blocks the cylinders transfer port to draw a full and complete charge from the reservoir (essentially starving the master cylinder)
By adjusting the tension on the master cylinders rod when its sitting in the home position you will allow the piston to go all the way to the snap ring and allow the piston to completely clear the transfer port.
And thus allowing for a full and complete charge of fluid to build pressure.
